Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

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Magnum
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Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Magnum » Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:27 pm

I made the switch to full synthetic oil and high flow oil filter. Here's a brief tutorial of what's included.

If you ever find the dreaded ''Red X'' please go here Magnum to be directed to my site.

Minimal tools required:

- Torque Wrench
- Ratchet
- 17MM Socket / Socket Extension
- 4MM Hex Wrench or Socket
- Oil Filter Wrench [Cup] for oil filter removal
- Oil of your choice [I suggest you get 3 quarts if you don't have extra of the same brand on hand]
- Oil Filter of your choice
- Drain Plug Washer Part # 92065-097


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I put the bike on the front and rear stands I have, but you can do this without stands. Start by briefly warming the engine, and then remove the lower fairing. Use a screwdriver or similar to pry out the plastic pin and then pull the snaps out. There are three total, one in the front and two underneath:
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Now remove these three hex bolts, they are 4MM:
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Now pull out from the bottom of the lower fairing and work it off, you only need to remove the lower right side fairing. Take note of this clips that attached the upper fairing to the lower fairing, see arrow:
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Now prepare to change the oil. We'll first remove 1 the oil filler plug, then 2 the oil drain plug and finally three the oil filter:
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Unscrew the oil filler plug:
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Now take your 17MM socket and wrench and remove the oil drain plug:
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Once loose you can just use your fingers to remove. BE CAREFUL of hot oil:
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Now let the oil drain while you take the oil filter off:
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Ok onto the oil filter, boy am I glad I had this oil filter cup because the dealer sure did put the oil filter on tight at my 600 mile service. There is no way I could have removed this by hand. Fit the cup on the oil filter and remove filter. Take care of the oil that will drain so you don't get oil all over the header:
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Let it drain. After removing the oil filter I let the bike sit for 5 minutes or so to get rid of as much oil as possible:
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Now get ready to put the new oil filter on. Open one of the new bottles of oil and apply some of the oil from the cap to the oil filters o-ring [gasket]:
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Like so:
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Now fit the oil filter cup on the new oil filter and screw the oil filter on by hand:
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Like so, just hand tight for now is good:
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Now fit your torque wrench on the oil filter cup and torque the oil filter to 13 ft. lbs.:
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Now either take the new drain plug washer and put it onto the drain bolt, or search through your oil pan to find the one that probably fell off:
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Like this, mine happen to not come off with the drain bolt and fell into the oil. Glad I bought a new one for the whopping $.39 the dealer charges. Not to mention the old washer had some grooves on it so I would not have reused it anyway. On a side note, I am surprised how dirty this oil is the dealer did the 600 mile service and I only have 2,304 miles on it now. Hmm, I haven't seen dino oil in years as I run full synthetic in my cars, but this **** looks filthy:
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Alright the oil is drained, so let's get ready to button up the rest of it. Take your new washer, drain bolt and screw it in hand tight and then torque it to 22 ft. lbs.:
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Now fill it up with oil:
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Alright after 2 quarts all looks good. Start up the bike and let it circulate for a few minutes:
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Then shut it down and let it set for a few more minutes to allow the oil to drain down. Well WTF, 1.9 quarts my ***, I added a bit more oil. So in total I put just a little more than 2 quarts back in:
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And finally a mileage shot 2,304 and the switch to full synthetic is on!:
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Disclaimer: This information is presented with no liability or guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
Last edited by Magnum on Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby TCRIDER » Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:15 am

Im changing my oil this week with 2,500mi on the ODO. I was going to go semi synthentic but I think I'll just go full like you.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby c0nfus3ds0u1 » Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:21 am

Yeah, I was wondering if it's better to go semi-synth first before going full synth.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Magnum » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:00 am

c0nfus3ds0u1 wrote:Yeah, I was wondering if it's better to go semi-synth first before going full synth.


All my sources say it doesn't matter, just don't switch to full syn until after the 1,000 mile mark. Most would recommend 1,500 to 2,000 miles....
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby dmarsingill » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:10 am

I thought I needed to top mine off, too. I added a little more and checked it a couple of days later. It was well above the mark. Next time I will add 2 qt and drive it . I will check it the next morning to verify.

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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby TCRIDER » Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:47 am

The sticker has an L. Wouldn't that be Liters? 1.9 liters is about 2.10 quarts. I filled mine with roughly about 1.9 Liters and it looks good. Could have a little more but its fine. Btw. Changing the oil is easy, take it to the dealer HA! :lol The only thing I hate is the mess. Towels, oil etc

First time changing oil for me. Im proud of myself :clap: :grin: :beer
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Magnum » Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:28 pm

TCRIDER wrote:The sticker has an L. Wouldn't that be Liters? 1.9 liters is about 2.10 quarts. I filled mine with roughly about 1.9 Liters and it looks good. Could have a little more but its fine. Btw. Changing the oil is easy, take it to the dealer HA! :lol The only thing I hate is the mess. Towels, oil etc

First time changing oil for me. Im proud of myself :clap: :grin: :beer


Page 281 in the service manual.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Ninra » Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:12 pm

I've been changing oil on cars for years and I'm adamant about pre-filling the filter with oil before putting it on to prevent starving the oil pump on start-up. Is there a reason why you wouldn't do that on a bike?
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby hickman71 » Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:15 pm

On the 650R, the filter is horizontal and will pour out while trying to thread it on.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Simon » Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:16 am

It's entirely possible to fill the filter half to three-quarters with oil and fitting it, without loosing any significant amount...
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Varment » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:28 am

I wouldn't think that it would be starved for long enough to make any difference especially if you warmed the bike up before hand. The oil already there will lube well enough for the few seconds it takes for the filter to fill up... I've been changing my oil in every one of my vehicles for years, My cherokee has 245,000 and counting and I've never prefilled. I've also never once seen a shop or oil change place pre fill either.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Ninra » Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:19 pm

I suppose it's open to debate. I picked it up from reading performance magazines as a kid. Whenever they talked about engine building and basic maintenance, they always recommended it. Most engine wear happens at start up and anything you can do to minimize oil starvation is a good thing.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby BRP » Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:07 pm

Ninra wrote:I've been changing oil on cars for years and I'm adamant about pre-filling the filter with oil before putting it on to prevent starving the oil pump on start-up. Is there a reason why you wouldn't do that on a bike?

1} It will not flow out if you pre oil the filter, unless you take forever to thread it on.
2} It's not necessary to pre-oil the filter on the 650 engine.
If you try and fill the engine without the oil filer on, you will find out why. ;-)
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Ninra » Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:17 pm

:thumbup: Yep. Put the filter on and replace the drain plug. Got that!
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Varment » Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:20 am

plug should be fine, just the crush washer should be replaced, they are only like 3 cents... I got a life time supply for a buck....
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby BRP » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:58 am

To be honest, I've used the same washer for 2 years.
We change the oil, twice a weekend x 10.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby electjohn » Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:59 am

Why the high flow filter. I have used a high flow filter on a race motor that had a external oil cooler that did away with the bypass in the block, and 50w oil cold would destroy a normal filter. But with a stock oiling system and a 10w oil a normal filter should be more than sufficent.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Ronin » Sun Feb 15, 2009 12:00 am

TCRIDER wrote:Btw. Changing the oil is easy, take it to the dealer HA! :lol The only thing I hate is the mess. Towels, oil etc


+1 The amount of time and effort I would expend on doing this and disposing of the old oil greatly outweighs having the dealer do it. Plus by having the dealer do it, it gives me a reason to ride instead of causing me not to ride.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby Mean and Green » Fri Jun 19, 2009 4:35 pm

Went with Rotella full syn myself around 1500 miles.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby calice14 » Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:44 pm

Just did my first oil change on my bike (done it many times on my car) didn't know about the whole pre fill oil filters on cars though. went with a pure one oil filter (found some recommendations online) and Mobil 1 syn 5w-40. Took almost 2.5 quarts to fill it back up. I took it out for a spin and everything seems okay. (fingers crossed) The oil is still a little brown from mixing with what was left of the old oil...also finally cleaned my chain (I was bad and didn't do it for a couple thousand miles...) took hours to clean.. but it's all spiffy no . I don't really like the white residue that blu ray chain lube leaves on it though.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby djrussell » Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:54 am

when did sony start making chain lube? :lol
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby gr33nninja » Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:30 pm

bel ray- blu ray ..........you guys are picky!haha
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby calice14 » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:46 pm

haha .. i realized after .. but couldn't edit again.. oh wells... =P
in my defense.. i was looking up ps3's while posting :)
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby speedemon » Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:18 am

You'll get more oil to drain out if you get the motor (oil) nice and hot first. The hotter it is, the thinner it gets. Also this puts a nice coat of oil on everything, so I don't worry about pre-filling the filter, car or bike.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby thornz12 » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:43 am

very informative, thank you!
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby paris400 » Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:12 am

calice14 wrote:Just did my first oil change on my bike (done it many times on my car) didn't know about the whole pre fill oil filters on cars though. went with a pure one oil filter (found some recommendations online) and Mobil 1 syn 5w-40. Took almost 2.5 quarts to fill it back up. I took it out for a spin and everything seems okay. (fingers crossed) The oil is still a little brown from mixing with what was left of the old oil...also finally cleaned my chain (I was bad and didn't do it for a couple thousand miles...) took hours to clean.. but it's all spiffy no . I don't really like the white residue that blu ray chain lube leaves on it though.


The Blu Ray chain lube makes the chain look 10x sharper than regular chain lube. :grin:

I used the solution in an aqueous parts cleaner to clean the chain and it worked great. I originally was using a spray cleaner that came in a kit with the lube, and it really didn't do much for me. A lint free cloth soaked in the parts cleaner solution got the chain squeaky clean. A couple of rinses, let it dry, and then the lube and the chain looks new. Was thinking of removing the chain to soak it clean, as I read in a post on this forum, but there was no need (thank goodness - cut my work time in half).

To get back on topic, thank you for this how to - I'm going to chain my Motul 300V this weekend as since my last oil change in April I've hit over 3500 miles! I know, I know - compared to you guys that's nothing! LOL
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby HipGnosis » Tue Oct 20, 2009 4:12 pm

I use tin foil to cover the pipes when changing the oil filter.
It's readily available, cheap, wraps around the pipes nicely so it won't fall off, is heat tolerant, oil proof (won't soak thru) and is re-useable, recycleable and/or disposable.

I also re-use the washer, but I put a small amount of gasket sealer (non-hardening) on it.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby mustangdaren » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:33 am

Did you notice more drivetrain noise after going to synthetic? I just switched to Mobile 1 synthetic and there is more vibration and a low drawn from the tranny when lugging below 3500rpm that wasn't there before. Just wondering if this is normal.
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Re: Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.

Postby vircotto » Fri Jun 10, 2011 5:17 pm

I didn't notice any difference when I went to Full synthetic.

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