Battery Tender

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hickman71
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Yuasa quick-connector & installation 101

Postby hickman71 » Wed Oct 01, 2008 1:56 pm

Most people should have a battery tender for their cycles. Why, you ask? Well motorcycles have very small batteries that have a much smaller capacity than their automobile counterparts. These batteries can discharge over time if not maintained on a battery tender, especially during the winter months where the cold results in a more dramatic/quicker discharge. Also, the stator (alternator) on a cycle doesn't recharge the battery as quickly as a automobile equivalent does.

The installation is on my '05 EX250, but the process is the same for all motorcycles. This is one of the first things I do to each cycle that I purchase.

This tutorial will walk you through the steps of installing a battery tender with ring connectors. My choice for a battery tender is the Yuasa 900 mA battery charger, which costs about $35.00. It's readily available online or locally at Wal-Mart, automotive stores, etc. This, and most other, unit comes with both a ring (permanent) and clip end. I recommend the ring end as it's safer and easier to use. If you have additional motorcycles, as I do, you can buy additional Yuasa ring ends for about $7.00 each. I have one installed on each of my motorcycles and move the tender between each cycle on a rotating basis.

Yuasa 900mA battery charger (repackaged by interstate batteries):

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Additional fused ring connector:

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positive lead (RED):

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negative lead (black):

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inline fuse (3 amp):

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quick connector (with cover on):

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quick connector (with cover off):

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The first step is to remove the seat on your 250. To do this, insert your key on the left side into the seat lock, which is located just above the helmet lock, as shown here:

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Once your seat is removed, this is what you will see:

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The battery is located to the left, just before the two fuel tank bolts. There is also a black rubber strap that holds the battery in place. This is what the battery looks like from overhead:

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The POSITIVE lead is on the left and is RED. The NEGATIVE lead is on the right and is BLACK.

First, remove the bolt from the NEGATIVE lead on the right using a phillips screwdriver. Leave the NEGATIVE disconnected until you have completed the process for the POSITIVE terminal. This is to prevent arc-ing (sparks, bad thing to have right behind your fuel tank/carbs not to mention your hands!) and is a safety thing. (thank you BrianM for this information!)

Next remove the POSITIVE lead from the POSITIVE terminal. Here's what the POSITIVE lead looks like with the bolt removed from the POSITIVE terminal:

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Now, remove the side fairings from each side of the cycle that start at the back edge of the tank (one phillips bolt and then pull free from the one front and two rear grommet stays):

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Notice that the postive side has a RED boot/cover? You have two choices for installation of the POSITIVE (RED) ring connector: either on the outside of the red boot or from within the red boot. If it's warm when you do this you may be able to push the POSITIVE ring connector through the boot sleeve. However, it's 35 degrees here today so the rubber boot is very stiff and this won't work. So, I cut off the ring connector and then fed the Yuasa POSITIVE wire through the red boot. You'll then need to crimp a new ring connector to the wire. If you want the easy way (not my preferred way), then you can place the bolt through the RED ring outside the red boot and then through the cycle's POSITIVE connector. Then, insert the bolt into the positive terminal post. You'll find out that the bolt is too short to reach the square nut, this is why we removed the side panels, to provide access to the nut from under the frame:

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Use a flat head screwdriver to 'lift' the nut up high enough to screw the bolt back in all the way. Once you are done, it will look like this:

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Note: this is the NEGATIVE side, do this to the POSITIVE side first!

Now repeat the process for the right side to raise the nut using a flat head screwdriver and then screw the bolt back in all the way. Your 250 will now look like this:

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I ran the quick connector back on the left side, under the tool kit box and under the seat release mechanism:

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This is how the connector looks like with the seat re-installed and the charger plugged into the cycle connector:

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This is the charger that has three lights:

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The top light is yellow and indicates that the unit has power.

The middle light is orange and indicates that the battery is charging.

The bottom light is green and indicates that that battery is fully charged, and is in trickle mode.

This unit will work with all major battery types, including flooded (wet), gelled, and AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat).
The Rally - Oklahoma
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Baxter
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Location: Bismarck, ND

Re: Battery Tender

Postby Baxter » Sun Dec 19, 2010 4:51 pm

Excellent tutorial.

One additional benefit of the quick connector on most battery tenders is that many electric vests or other gear will be able to use the same quick connect to draw power.
"It is our mind, and that alone, that chains us or sets us free." Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche
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hickman71
BRP Approved Tech
Posts: 91
Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 10:28 am
Location: Broken Arrow, OK

Re: Battery Tender

Postby hickman71 » Fri Mar 04, 2011 2:31 pm

That's how I connect my Widder controller on each of my cycles.
The Rally - Oklahoma

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